Pathfinder Manual Transmission Rebuild Page 1
Remove Transmission in my 1994 Nissan Pathfinder.
I WD-40'd the exhaust bolts. It's a penetrant like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.
Note:WD-40 in your eyes hurts.
With one long adapter, the breaker bar fit perfectly into this little curve in the pipe behind this catalytic converter.
This piece of the exhaust system came off surprisingly easily. No broken knuckles or broken bolts.
Looking up into the blackness of the exhaust system.
I drained the transmission fluid. The Magnetic drain plug was free of metal shavings, good sign.
The GL-4 Amsoil in there looked so clean, I was tempted to re use it. It had over 50k on it, so f it.
I marked the axle differential connection so when i reassemble it will still be balanced.
There is the pathfinder two piece axle.
Rounded over a nut here. It was hard to reach and I couldn't get a socket or box end in there,
had to use the open end.
This is the part that goes into the transmission. I put a paper towel in there to keep it clean
and it was dripping oil.
There is the transmission end with a couple rags in it to keep it from dripping and keep it clean.
Damn, that T bar is dirty.
There is the rear differential with no axle attached.
Took the shift boot out from the rug. Six sheet metal screws held it in.
After I stopped worrying about breaking something and used some force,
it was easy to pull and push the rug aside and get to the screws. I bent the sheet metal and cut my hands pretty good too.
Here's the metal plate out from under the rug. You can see the position of the screw holes.
Removed the shift knob.
The outer shift boot, or "shift boot majora", and inner shift boot, or "shift boot minora",
came off easily, revealing the third and final inner inner shift boot,
also called the "transmission hymen". That came off really easily,
but it was so fragile that I tore a hole in it.
I had to order a new one from the dealer.
I feel dirty.
Removing the shift knob snap ring. Only the inner one need come out.
Then give her a good pull and pop. My snap ring pliers went pop too.
Protect the shift lever from dirt and dust.
Next I removed the clutch slave cylinder. There it is on the front passenger side of the transmission.
Two small bolts hold it on. It came off very easily.
These are the three electrical connections on the passenger side of the transmission,
neutral switch, backup light switch, and the speedometer.
Next I started to remove the rear transmission support. This piece was hooked to the exhaust pipe,
and had to come off to make enough room to slide the support out once it was loose.
This is a view of the rear support loose.
A bolt on either side, two bolts in the middle, the support bracket, and a lot of penetrant.
You can also see the stock Nissan bottle jack supporting the engine oil pan.
- Unhooked the neg battery cable.
- Took out the starter. Super easy and not messy at all. Did it wearing a suit on my way to an early board meeting. Coffee didn't even get cold.
I supported the transmission with my
home-made transmission jack.
I slid the rear transmission support back out of the way,
and lowered the transmission about an inch to
get some more clearance to the transmission bolts.
There are nine bolts, plus the two that held in the starter.
This socket extension setup was able to get to the bolts.
It took me three hours to figure this out.
I needed the jack that was supporting the engine to get the transmission out from under the car.
I used a tiedown strap and a 2x3 to hold up the back half of the engine by the flywheel.
After a lot of finessing, cursing, wiggling, and pulling, I slid it back and
lowered the transmission to the ground! It wasn't really stuck, it was just sort of
levered or wedged in between the input shaft and the body of the car.
- Then I finished my beer.
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Think: Cars are expensive, powerful, and heavy. Before I start work, I face the possibility that I will destroy my vehicle, my own life, and innocent pedestrians' lives. If anyone messes with a 4000 lb machine capable of 100 mph, these are real possibilities. If I get in over my head, I call a professional mechanic. The information on this website is provided only for entertainment purposes, and it is not intended as advice on how to service a vehicle. For all you know I made this up. Don`t believe everything you read on the internet.
Disclaimer: The technical information in these documents is provided without any warranty whatsoever and at no cost. All information is in general terms and is not meant to apply to your particular situation, be current at the time you read it, or even be correct in the first place. Improperly maintained vehicles can lead to serious injury, death, or unavoidable accidents. The author is not responsible for any errors on this site, and does not make any claim at all about the validity, safety, or veracity of the information contained on this website. Any work you choose to do or not to do on your vehicle is done at your own risk. The information on this site is not intended to serve as a replacement for professional advice, professional workmanship, dealer service, union labor, or psychological counseling. The author disclaims any and all liability directly or indirectly arising from the application or use of any information or idea contained on this or any other web site. By opening this page, you agree to never sue anyone ever or allow anyone to be sued on your behalf. The appropriate professional should be consulted regarding your specific condition. BeerGarage.com does not take responsibility for the information posted on other sites to which it links.
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Last modified: 11/25/2013