Pathfinder Transmission Rebuild Page 2
Opening Transmission Case in my 1994 Nissan Pathfinder.
But first, lets pay some bills:
"Nissan FS5R30A 5 Speed (RWD) Manual Transmission Rebuild Kit, K100603" from
Seven bearings, some gaskets, seals.
- The good people at AC4X4 Forums hooked me up with a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL . No way in hell I could have done this without the manual. I will note the page in the manual, when I think of it.
Got them from the good people at
Transmission Exchange Company.
Spencer sent the parts on time at the price agreed.
And when I didn't need them, he took them back less shipping + $10 restocking.
I was psyched.
Shop press. This one is Harbor Freight for about $100. Worked fine.
Bearing splitter / puller. I got one off Ebay and a second set from Harbor Freight. I needed a smaller bearing splitter, and needed it that day.
- "Nissan FS5R30A 5 Speed (RWD) Manual Transmission Rebuild Kit, K100603" from Drivetrain.com. Seven bearings, some gaskets, seals.
My brother washed brushed and scrubbed the transmission. Thank you, Issa.
Removed this Transmission support bracket.
I couldn't find a pic of this in the manual,
so I ended up checking these pictures to see how to put it back on.
Got it up on the bench.
Didn't use a winch. Did use a back brace.
This is the cover inside the bell housing. I must clean it before I open it.
As I understand it there is asbestos in here from the clutch disk.
I worked masked and kept the work wet with cleaner to reduce airborne particles.
As a reminder to myself, the three bolts on the lower left are different.
They go all the way through the case and need sealant on reassembly so they won't leak.
The Shift fork and Throw out bearing come off easily.
I should make a clutch writeup and link it in here.
But it is very similar to changing the
After everything is clean, I start disassembly.
This is the check ball plug, spring, and ball bearing. They push on the gear selector and provide tension to select gears properly. I don't fully understand it.
See Factory Service Manual, Manual Transmission Section, page 37, #1 (MT-37 1)
Storing parts in all those plastic bags my wife won't throw away.
Lots of labels and notes and pictures to help me put it back together.
Removed the cover from this shifter part here.
Drove out the two retaining pins on the shifter bar.
One pin inside the other. Short drift / punch,
so drove the pins out the last mm with whatever was handy, like this nail and bolt.
Removed the speedometer sensor gear.
The case will not come apart with this in there
unless you hit it really hard and break it. Ahem.
These pictures show which bolts have the black coated clips on them.
These hold the wires that attach to the transmission.
They are not in the manual.
I am glad I took these pictures so I would know where to put them.
I was using the manual, so I reassembled the case without putting these onto the bolts.
Then I had to take them off, reseal the case, and put them back with the washer coated clips that time.
Plus, nice Chucks, right?
Removed the case bolts that hold the two parts together.
No turning back now. Transmission case open.
Back in the bell housing, the transmission front cover plate must come off.
The bottom three screws go all the way through and need sealant during reinstall.
This small snapring and spacer on the shift control come off.
Used the big snapring pliers to get this input shaft bearing snapring off.
It came off easily.
Thank you for these snapring pliers, dad.
- Now I can easily separate the center plate from the front transmission case.
- Tapped lightly with a plastic hammer just like the service manual says.
- Tapped a little harder.
- Beat the hell out of it with a 16 ounce framing hammer and a block of wood.
- Got drunk.
- Asked for help.
- Was reminded of god's gift to mechanics, WD-40.
- Sprayed everything with WD-40.
- Bathed in WD-40.
- Drank WD-40.
- I think I have cancer, but the case came apart.
The alignment pin had a burr on it. It was binding as the other side of the plate was coming off easily. I put these bolts in to try to keep the plate aligned to the bell housing so it wouldn't bind on the alignment pin while I took it off.
There are the transmission gears and Shift control components.
Out of the case and ready for some wrenchin'.
I put some thin scrap wood onto the vice before I clamped the aluminum adapter plate.
Used hammer and punch to remove striking lever (left side of picture) and shift dogs.
I really enjoy using these punches.
Took off the shift dogs.
Note to self: This is how the shift interlock /striking lever goes together.
MT-38 1-4, MT-39 5-6
At this point of disassembly, gears are exposed and ready for gear end play measurement. That is the stage where I find out why I couldn't get it into first gear or reverse.
- Next I prostituted myself to make 02¢
so I can fulfill my lifelong dream of owning a 1994 300ZX with ruined body work.
Or perhaps that nice 1982 380SEC with no interior.
Maybe even, dare I think it, a 2003 Subaru with a blown engine.
But no minivans!
- Then I finished my beer.
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Think: Cars are expensive, powerful, and heavy. Before I start work, I face the possibility that I will destroy my vehicle, my own life, and innocent pedestrians' lives. If anyone messes with a 4000 lb machine capable of 100 mph, these are real possibilities. If I get in over my head, I call a professional mechanic. The information on this website is provided only for entertainment purposes, and it is not intended as advice on how to service a vehicle. For all you know I made this up. Don`t believe everything you read on the internet.
Disclaimer: The technical information in these documents is provided without any warranty whatsoever and at no cost. All information is in general terms and is not meant to apply to your particular situation, be current at the time you read it, or even be correct in the first place. Improperly maintained vehicles can lead to serious injury, death, or unavoidable accidents. The author is not responsible for any errors on this site, and does not make any claim at all about the validity, safety, or veracity of the information contained on this website. Any work you choose to do or not to do on your vehicle is done at your own risk. The information on this site is not intended to serve as a replacement for professional advice, professional workmanship, dealer service, union labor, or psychological counseling. The author disclaims any and all liability directly or indirectly arising from the application or use of any information or idea contained on this or any other web site. By opening this page, you agree to never sue anyone ever or allow anyone to be sued on your behalf. The appropriate professional should be consulted regarding your specific condition. BeerGarage.com does not take responsibility for the information posted on other sites to which it links.
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Last modified: 11/22/2014