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SUBARUPictures of how I replaced the CV axle boots on a CV axle that is rust frozen into the hub on the Subaru Legacy Outback.


   
  1. The CV axle boot is torn, split, and falling off. Grease is splattered everywhere. Why does this not surprise me, Fuji Heavy Industries? Yes, because I had to do this before.
    leaking subaru


  2. I popped off the hub cap. This really is the cap over the hub.
    hub cap


  3. I un PEENed the axle nut. The screwdriver was a wedge that drove in and pushed the axle lip out. I did not push it all the way out.
    axle nut peened


  4. My big ass-wrench was able to break the axle nut free even with it still slightly peened. I also broke loose all the lug nuts with my medium ass-wrench.
    Ass Wrench


  5. I chocked the back wheel, jacked it, jack stand -ed it, and put in another jack stand because I don't want to die.
    Jack


  6. The brake caliper has to come off, these two bolts back here have to come out.
    caliper     caliper bolts


  7. I pulled those little bolts, and hung the caliper with a wire.
    caliper hangin on a wire


  8. I removed the ball joint bolt.
    ball joint bolt


  9. I pried the ball joint loose from the swing arm.
    crow bar


  10. I removed the swaybar bolt.
    swaybar bolt


  11. To remove the axle from the hub, I attached a three arm puller and pulled. I WD-40'd. I Whanged with a BFH (Big Freakin' Hammer).

    OK, kids, now can you spot what's wrong with this picture?
    whanged with a hammer


  12. My BFH is B R Oken.
    broken BFH


  13. And my puller is broken too.
    broken puller


  14. The axle is frozen into the hub. I wore myself out whanging on that thing. It is not coming out. The Google machine tells me that this is common, and a 20 ton press is not guaranteed to free it. This happened last time, and I broke the tone ring and paid a shop $500 to replace that and free the hub and finish the job. Sonofa. I don't happen to have an extra $500 laying around.

    Hmmm...
    Thinker


  15. It looks like I can change both boots with the axle still frozen in the hub.
    axle diagram


  16. There is a pin holding the inner axle to the transmission.
    axle pin


  17. I used a drift and then a bolt that was longer than the drift to get the pin out. The factory service manual says to replace the pin, but I am going to reuse it.
    drift


  18. Once free of the transmission, I need to remove an interior clip, circlip, snap ring, C-clip, Jesus clip (not making that up), that holds in the bearings.
    clip


  19. After smearing grease all over my entire body I was able to remove the clip.
    greasy clip


  20. With the outer bearing race removed, I can see the inner race and cage. I also have the pleasure of six greasy ball bearings splatting onto my head.
    bearing race


  21. There is a snapring on the end of the shaft. I needed the snap ring pliers to remove this one.
    snapring


  22. The outer boot I just cut off with a wire cutters out of spite.
    cutters


  23. I cleaned the axle shaft because I would have to slide the axle boots over it later.
    clean


  24. There are the outer bearings. I cleaned the old grease out because it was all dirty greasy icky, and that bothers me.
    icky


  25. Axle boots from Beck Arnley. Beck Arnley is sourcing in China now! Shit. I'll be doing this again is two years, won't I.
    Beck China Arnley


  26. I cleaned everything and laid everything out for reinstallation. Bearing races, axle grease, circlip, cage, six axle bearings, four boot clamps, two axle boots, and a partridge in a pear tree.
    12 days of christmas


  27. I slid the outer boot on over the axle, greased the outer bearings, and slipped the boot into place.
    outer axle boot


  28. I installed the outer boot clamp. It took me a while to figure out how to do it well. First I put it on and pulled it tight by hand.
    boot clamp


  29. Then I used a needle nose pliers to wrap the loose end around and tighten it up. I twisted so the pliers were under the clamp end, and the pliers hit against the band. When I twisted the other way, it looked like I was going to rip off the band.
    pliers     boot clamp band


  30. With the pliers still twisted and holding it tight, I used the ball end of a Ball Peen Hammer to Peen the boot clamp band. Then I folded the loose end over and peened the shit out of it. Peen, motherf***er, peen.
    peen


  31. Then I cut off the loose end with a wire cutter and peened it some more.
    cut


  32. Oh my god, just writing this up is taking forever. Doing the actual work took forever and wore me out. I am so sore. At least I didn't have to take it to a shop this time. Argh. Where's my bourbon!?!?
    bourbon


  33. Bearing cage, inner bearing race, axle snapring.
    parts


  34. The race goes into the cage, then you have to rotate it 30° to make room for the bearings.
    insert     rotate


  35. There they are on the axle. The wide end of the cage goes toward the end of the axle. The small boot clamp has to go on first.
    axle bearing race


  36. I squeezed a glob of grease into each bearing space in the race. Then I stuck a bearing into each space, and the grease held it in.
    race space


  37. Then the outer race, filled with the rest of the grease in the package, slid over that. And then I pushed the circlip into all that grease until it clicked into the groove. Then I peened the boot clamps just like the outside.
    outer race


  38. I aligned the hole in the race with the hole in the transmission output shaft and slid it on.
    align


  39. I drove in the pin, and holy hell I'm done. I replaced the CV axle boots with the axle still frozen in the hub. Me am so smart.
    pin in


  40. Then the wheel and everything is the reverse of removal, yeah. Also I tried to drive away with the back tire still chocked. I always do that.


  41. Then I finished my beer.
    Beer


Comments


Zuolan wrote ( 2/11/2008 11:32:25 PM )


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