Pictures of how I Replaced the clutch on the Subaru Legacy Outback 2.2 engine.
GOOD TO KNOW:
- The mechanism that transfers rotation energy from the engine to the transmission. It can be engaged or disengaged.
- The large metal disk / gear bolted to the back of the crankshaft. Its heavy weight helps engine spin smoothly, its surface transfers energy to the clutch.
- Idler Bearing:
- A bearing in the center of the flywheel in which the transmission input shaft rests. Allows the shaft to spin independently of the flywheel while remaining centered.
- Transmission Input Shaft:
- The geared shaft that is turned by the clutch disk. It spins the gears in the transmission.
- Clutch Disk:
- A friction disk, splined to the transmission input shaft, and pressed against the flywheel. The friction against the flywheel transfers energy from the flywheel to the transmission input shaft.
- Pressure Plate:
- A metal friction surface, bolted to the flywheel, that presses the clutch disk onto the flywheel.
- Pressure Plate Diaphragm:
- Metal springs, arranged in a circular diaphragm, that press the pressure plate against the clutch disk.
- Release Bearing:
- A bearing that presses against the pressure plate diaphragm to release pressure from the pressure plate, which disengages the clutch, when you press the clutch pedal.
- Oil Separator Plate:
- A plate on the rear of the engine that doesn't hold in the oil.
But first, lets pay some bills:
Screwdriver holds flywheel as I remove pressure plate bolts with a breaker bar.
Removed clutch disk is worn out and I am guessing oil soaked.
Removed flywheel is worn and burned. Note heat discolored metal.
Here is a view of the inspection hole and cover that I could not find until the engine was out.
Back of engine is oily from a leak. Is the leak from the rear main seal, oil separator plate, or the transmission input shaft seal?
- It was the oil separator plate. I changed the oil separator plate, and the rear main seal too, for good measure. Link to that writup.
Flywheel is machined nicely. Napa quoted me $60 and charged me $43 or something.
Installed the idler bearing with some washers, deep socket, and a dead blow hammer. Flywheel is supported on wood to spare alignment pins.
AAAhhh. So that's INCH pounds, not FOOT pounds. Got it.
Holding alignment tool, hand tightening new pressure plate bolts.
Used normal household insulation to re-foam the bottom plate under the flywheel. It looks like it is there to prevent dust getting in, and to let oil out. This seems to work.
New idler bearing clips.
White lithium grease on idler bearing release fork.
Front of transmission cleaned. Shaft splines greased. Bearing and fork installed.
- Put it all back together.
- Next I prostituted myself to make 02¢
so I can fulfill my lifelong dream of owning a 1994 300ZX with ruined body work.
Or perhaps that nice 1982 380SEC with no interior.
Maybe even, dare I think it, a 2003 Subaru with a blown engine.
But no minivans!
- Then I finished my beer.
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Think: Cars are expensive, powerful, and heavy. Before I start work, I face the possibility that I will destroy my vehicle, my own life, and innocent pedestrians' lives. If anyone messes with a 4000 lb machine capable of 100 mph, these are real possibilities. If I get in over my head, I call a professional mechanic. The information on this website is provided only for entertainment purposes, and it is not intended as advice on how to service a vehicle. For all you know I made this up. Don`t believe everything you read on the internet.
Disclaimer: The technical information in these documents is provided without any warranty whatsoever and at no cost. All information is in general terms and is not meant to apply to your particular situation, be current at the time you read it, or even be correct in the first place. Improperly maintained vehicles can lead to serious injury, death, or unavoidable accidents. The author is not responsible for any errors on this site, and does not make any claim at all about the validity, safety, or veracity of the information contained on this website. Any work you choose to do or not to do on your vehicle is done at your own risk. The information on this site is not intended to serve as a replacement for professional advice, professional workmanship, dealer service, union labor, or psychological counseling. The author disclaims any and all liability directly or indirectly arising from the application or use of any information or idea contained on this or any other web site. By opening this page, you agree to never sue anyone ever or allow anyone to be sued on your behalf. The appropriate professional should be consulted regarding your specific condition. BeerGarage.com does not take responsibility for the information posted on other sites to which it links.
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Last modified: 11/21/2014