Pictures of how I Replaced the clutch on the Subaru Legacy Outback 2.2 engine.
GOOD TO KNOW:
- The mechanism that transfers rotation energy from the engine to the transmission. It can be engaged or disengaged.
- The large metal disk / gear bolted to the back of the crankshaft. Its heavy weight helps engine spin smoothly, its surface transfers energy to the clutch.
- Idler Bearing:
- A bearing in the center of the flywheel in which the transmission input shaft rests. Allows the shaft to spin independently of the flywheel while remaining centered.
- Transmission Input Shaft:
- The geared shaft that is turned by the clutch disk. It spins the gears in the transmission.
- Clutch Disk:
- A friction disk, splined to the transmission input shaft, and pressed against the flywheel. The friction against the flywheel transfers energy from the flywheel to the transmission input shaft.
- Pressure Plate:
- A metal friction surface, bolted to the flywheel, that presses the clutch disk onto the flywheel.
- Pressure Plate Diaphragm:
- Metal springs, arranged in a circular diaphragm, that press the pressure plate against the clutch disk.
- Release Bearing:
- A bearing that presses against the pressure plate diaphragm to release pressure from the pressure plate, which disengages the clutch, when you press the clutch pedal.
- Oil Separator Plate:
- A plate on the rear of the engine that doesn't hold in the oil.
Screwdriver holds flywheel as I remove pressure plate bolts with a breaker bar.
Removed clutch disk is worn out and I am guessing oil soaked.
Removed flywheel is worn and burned. Note heat discolored metal.
Here is a view of the inspection hole and cover that I could not find until the engine was out.
Back of engine is oily from a leak. Is the leak from the rear main seal, oil separator plate, or the transmission input shaft seal?
- It was the oil separator plate. I changed the oil separator plate, and the rear main seal too, for good measure. Link to that writup.
Flywheel is machined nicely. Napa quoted me $60 and charged me $43 or something.
Installed the idler bearing with some washers, deep socket, and a dead blow hammer. Flywheel is supported on wood to spare alignment pins.
AAAhhh. So that's INCH pounds, not FOOT pounds. Got it.
Holding alignment tool, hand tightening new pressure plate bolts.
Used normal household insulation to re-foam the bottom plate under the flywheel. It looks like it is there to prevent dust getting in, and to let oil out. This seems to work.
New idler bearing clips.
White lithium grease on idler bearing release fork.
Front of transmission cleaned. Shaft splines greased. Bearing and fork installed.
- Put it all back together.
- Then I finished my beer.
brian wrote ( 8/10/2007 9:29:01 AM )
Garage wrote ( 8/16/2007 9:05:37 AM )
Kevin Sorrell wrote ( 12/20/2007 11:53:05 AM )
Garage wrote ( 12/30/2007 11:19:32 PM )
craig wrote ( 5/29/2009 9:12:33 AM )
Greg wrote ( 5/6/2010 6:43:57 AM )
Garage wrote ( 5/6/2010 11:44:52 AM )
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