Pictures of how I Removed the Engine on the Subaru Legacy Outback 2.2 engine.
GOOD TO KNOW:
Engine RemovalThe clutch went out. Oil was leaking all over. The timing belt was past due. I decided to take the engine out to do the work.
Many thanks to my very very supportive wife. I had the engine out of her car for almost a month. During that time my wife did not complain about sharing my car. In fact, she repeatedly told me that she was proud of me for taking on such a challenging task, for working hard, and saving money for the family. She is so awesome.
But first, lets pay some bills:
Assembled and tested cheap Chinese shop crane.
- I raised the Suby.
I opened the hood to VERTICAL. To do this I removed the hood prop and put it into the REAR holder.
Under engine splash shields.
- Battery. Negative then Positive. I didn't get a good "before" picture of this, and I ended up disconnecting the body ground three times to reroute it before I got it right.
Wiper fluid reservoir. I started labeling everything and I am really glad I did. After almost a month, I had forgotten which was my a$$ and which was my elbow. This is an after picture. The wires are routed well enough I think.
- Coolant Reservoir.
Removed Electric Cooling Fans.
- Drained coolant through the leaky as hell drain cock. Then removed radiator hoses.
Radiator. Came out a lot easier than I imagined. Put plywood in to protect condenser fins. I also sprayed out the condenser and radiator with a hose while it was all accessible.
Air Cleaner. Again, labeling connections on both ends helped during reassembly.
Fuel Lines. Fuel flowed everywhere. I caught most of it in a mason jar.
Brake Booster (I think) to Air Intake Manifold Hose.
Throttle and Cruise Control Cables. *Labels are good.* I like Port and Starboard.
Clutch and Hill Holder cables. Notice that I still have not connected the hill holder cable in this photo. What a pain in the back that was. Leaning over the engine right to the center. It finally seemed to be adjusted properly when the spring was just barely tensioned (spring is at the other end of the cable (drivers side rear of engine compartment)). Thanks to Mark for pointing out my error.
Note the route of the hill holder cable under the intake manifold.
For reassembly, the engine - transmission mounting bolt goes through:
- Ground Cable
- Hill Holder Cable Bracket
Heater Hoses at Bell Housing.
Electrical Connections at Bell Housing.
At about this point I loosened the crank bolt so I could get to the timing belt later.
It took me a while to find these two bolt holes around the flywheel. I stuck a screwdriver in there to hold the engine as I loosened the bolt. Usually putting it in gear will hold it, but the clutch was so far gone it slipped. Here is a picture of the hole under the electric connections at bell housing mentioned above.
Power steering pump to the side and
A/C pump still connected to condenser, but unbolted from engine. I am ready to move it to the side while lifting the engine (difficult, probably dangerous, but doable).
Electrical connections at alternator. I did not remove the alternator, spark plugs, or Intake manifold as the Haynes manual suggested.
- Exhaust Manifolds. With WD-40 liberally applied about 3 days earlier, the bolts came off very easily. - I did not remove the O2 sensors or connections as some texts suggested. I tied the exhaust to the steering stabilizer with wire.
- Drained oil.
- Motor mount nuts.
- Loosened 2 Transmission to Engine mounting nuts, second bolt.
Connected Engine Hoist at the alternator mount and the rear eye hook, using chain and fasteners rated in excess of 4X the engine weight.
Then took out slack.
- Double checked everything.
- Triple checked everything.
- Removed 2 Transmission to Engine mounting nuts below, second bolt above.
Lifted Engine about 1" to clear Engine mount bolts.
That's me. Did I mention that I'm 2 years old? Mom says I'm precocious.
- Supported Transmission with a jack - only the input shaft held it up now.
Slid Engine forward to clear input shaft.
Out she comes, spinning and wiggling. Glad I had plywood over condenser.
I jacked it up with my left hand and held the AC compressor out of the way with the right. The whole time thinking a hose would pop and send pressurized R134a shooting into my eyes.
I was just generally scared while I did this.
This is actually an after shot of the engine going in. Note the shiny new clutch.
Engine safely on shop bench,
using 1x scrap wood to spare the oil drain plug, 4x4 scraps at the engine mounts,
and chained to an eye bolt above (this saved me about 10 times).
- Next I sold out to make 02¢
so I can fulfill my lifelong dream of owning a 1986 944 with blown head gaskets.
But no minivans!
- Then I finished my beer.
Donate to CharityIf this site has helped you, or even if it hasn't, please help care for abused and neglected children by making a donation to The Valley of the Moon Children's Home. That's right, abused and neglected children. Visit their website and try not to cry, you cold hearted bastard. Their site talks about how they achieved their goals and built a new home, but that was years ago. They still need cash to take care of all the kids there. Breaks my heart and pisses me off.
Think: Cars are expensive, powerful, and heavy. Before I start work, I face the possibility that I will destroy my vehicle, my own life, and innocent pedestrians' lives. If anyone messes with a 4000 lb machine capable of 100 mph, these are real possibilities. If I get in over my head, I call a professional mechanic. The information on this website is provided only for entertainment purposes, and it is not intended as advice on how to service a vehicle. For all you know I made this up. Don`t believe everything you read on the internet.
Disclaimer: The technical information in these documents is provided without any warranty whatsoever and at no cost. All information is in general terms and is not meant to apply to your particular situation, be current at the time you read it, or even be correct in the first place. Improperly maintained vehicles can lead to serious injury, death, or unavoidable accidents. The author is not responsible for any errors on this site, and does not make any claim at all about the validity, safety, or veracity of the information contained on this website. Any work you choose to do or not to do on your vehicle is done at your own risk. The information on this site is not intended to serve as a replacement for professional advice, professional workmanship, dealer service, union labor, or psychological counseling. The author disclaims any and all liability directly or indirectly arising from the application or use of any information or idea contained on this or any other web site. By opening this page, you agree to never sue anyone ever or allow anyone to be sued on your behalf. The appropriate professional should be consulted regarding your specific condition. BeerGarage.com does not take responsibility for the information posted on other sites to which it links.
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Last modified: 11/21/2014