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SUBARUPictures of how I Removed the Engine on the Subaru Legacy Outback 2.2 engine.


GOOD TO KNOW:

ENGINE:
HEAVY


Engine Removal

   The clutch went out. Oil was leaking all over. The timing belt was past due. I decided to take the engine out to do the work.
   Many thanks to my very very supportive wife. I had the engine out of her car for almost a month. During that time my wife did not complain about sharing my car. In fact, she repeatedly told me that she was proud of me for taking on such a challenging task, for working hard, and saving money for the family. She is so awesome.
But first, lets pay some bills:
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  1. Assembled and tested cheap Chinese shop crane.
    Hoist


  2. I raised the Suby.


  3. I opened the hood to VERTICAL. To do this I removed the hood prop and put it into the REAR holder.
    Hood


  4. Under engine splash shields.
    Splash


  5. Battery. Negative then Positive. I didn't get a good "before" picture of this, and I ended up disconnecting the body ground three times to reroute it before I got it right.


  6. Wiper fluid reservoir. I started labeling everything and I am really glad I did. After almost a month, I had forgotten which was my a$$ and which was my elbow. This is an after picture. The wires are routed well enough I think.
    Reservoir


  7. Coolant Reservoir.


  8. Removed Electric Cooling Fans.
    Fans


  9. Drained coolant through the leaky as hell drain cock. Then removed radiator hoses.


  10. Radiator. Came out a lot easier than I imagined. Put plywood in to protect condenser fins. I also sprayed out the condenser and radiator with a hose while it was all accessible.
    Radiator


  11. Air Cleaner. Again, labeling connections on both ends helped during reassembly.
    Cleaner


  12. Fuel Lines. Fuel flowed everywhere. I caught most of it in a mason jar.
    Fuel


  13. Brake Booster (I think) to Air Intake Manifold Hose.
    Booster


  14. Throttle and Cruise Control Cables. *Labels are good.* I like Port and Starboard.
    Throttle


  15. Clutch and Hill Holder cables. Notice that I still have not connected the hill holder cable in this photo. What a pain in the back that was. Leaning over the engine right to the center. It finally seemed to be adjusted properly when the spring was just barely tensioned (spring is at the other end of the cable (drivers side rear of engine compartment)). Thanks to Mark for pointing out my error.
    Clutch


  16. Note the route of the hill holder cable under the intake manifold.
    Hill


  17. Starter.
    For reassembly, the engine - transmission mounting bolt goes through:
    1. Ground Cable
    2. Hill Holder Cable Bracket
    3. Starter
    4. Transmission
    5. Engine


  18. Heater Hoses at Bell Housing.
    Heat


  19. Electrical Connections at Bell Housing.
    Electric


  20. At about this point I loosened the crank bolt so I could get to the timing belt later.
    It took me a while to find these two bolt holes around the flywheel. I stuck a screwdriver in there to hold the engine as I loosened the bolt. Usually putting it in gear will hold it, but the clutch was so far gone it slipped. Here is a picture of the hole under the electric connections at bell housing mentioned above.
    Screw Hole heh heh heh


  21. Power steering pump to the side and
    A/C pump still connected to condenser, but unbolted from engine. I am ready to move it to the side while lifting the engine (difficult, probably dangerous, but doable).
    Pumps


  22. Electrical connections at alternator. I did not remove the alternator, spark plugs, or Intake manifold as the Haynes manual suggested.
    Plugs


  23. Pitching Stopper.
    Pitch


  24. Exhaust Manifolds. With WD-40 liberally applied about 3 days earlier, the bolts came off very easily.   -   I did not remove the O2 sensors or connections as some texts suggested. I tied the exhaust to the steering stabilizer with wire.


  25. Drained oil.


  26. Motor mount nuts.


  27. Loosened 2 Transmission to Engine mounting nuts, second bolt.


  28. Connected Engine Hoist at the alternator mount and the rear eye hook, using chain and fasteners rated in excess of 4X the engine weight.
      Then took out slack.
    Front Rear


  29. Double checked everything.


  30. Triple checked everything.


  31. Removed 2 Transmission to Engine mounting nuts below, second bolt above.


  32. Lifted Engine about 1" to clear Engine mount bolts.
    IMAGE
    That's me. Did I mention that I'm 2 years old? Mom says I'm precocious.


  33. Supported Transmission with a jack - only the input shaft held it up now.


  34. Slid Engine forward to clear input shaft.
    Slide


  35. Out she comes, spinning and wiggling. Glad I had plywood over condenser.
    I jacked it up with my left hand and held the AC compressor out of the way with the right. The whole time thinking a hose would pop and send pressurized R134a shooting into my eyes.
      I was just generally scared while I did this.
    Engine Up
    This is actually an after shot of the engine going in. Note the shiny new clutch.


  36. Engine safely on shop bench, using 1x scrap wood to spare the oil drain plug, 4x4 scraps at the engine mounts, and chained to an eye bolt above (this saved me about 10 times).
    Safe Safe


  37. Next I sold out to make 02ยข so I can fulfill my lifelong dream of owning a 1986 944 with blown head gaskets.
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    But no minivans!


  38. Then I finished my beer.
    Beer


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Disclaimer: The technical information in these documents is provided without any warranty whatsoever and at no cost.   All information is in general terms and is not meant to apply to your particular situation, be current at the time you read it, or even be correct in the first place.   Improperly maintained vehicles can lead to serious injury, death, or unavoidable accidents. The author is not responsible for any errors on this site, and does not make any claim at all about the validity, safety, or veracity of the information contained on this website. Any work you choose to do or not to do on your vehicle is done at your own risk. The information on this site is not intended to serve as a replacement for professional advice, professional workmanship, dealer service, union labor, or psychological counseling.   The author disclaims any and all liability directly or indirectly arising from the application or use of any information or idea contained on this or any other web site.   By opening this page, you agree to never sue anyone ever or allow anyone to be sued on your behalf.   The appropriate professional should be consulted regarding your specific condition.    BeerGarage.com does not take responsibility for the information posted on other sites to which it links.

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Last modified: 11/21/2014
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