Pictures of how I Replaced the Timing Belt on the Subaru Legacy Outback 2.2 engine.
GOOD TO KNOW:
- Crankshaft Pulley:
- Big rusty pulley on front of crankshaft, outside of timing belt covers. This drives the a/c and alternator belts.
- Crankshaft Sprocket:
- A toothed sprocket located on the crank shaft, behind the Crank Pulley, which drives the timing belt.
- Cam Shaft Sprockets:
- Big sprockets, one on each cam shaft. They have twice as many teeth as the Crank Sprocket so the pistons will take 4 strokes for every 2 cycles of the cams.
- Belt Idlers (2 smooth, one toothed bearing):
- Bearings that direct the belt around corners.
- Belt Tensioner (Bearing):
- Spring loaded bearing that pushes on the belt.
- Belt Tensioner Adjuster:
- The pneumatic plunger that pushes on the Belt Tensioner and keeps it tight.
Changing the Timing Belt
I changed the Timing belt twice. Both times the real motivation was to fix several oil leaks. Freakin Subarus. The first time I took the whole engine out, the next time I left the engine in. The first time took a week or two, the second time took one day. I will show one procedure, with pictures from either mixed together just to confuse you.
I took out the radiator to make some room to work.
I covered the A/C condenser with cardboard to protect the fins.
At this point I either removed the engine, or not.
Then I removed the covers over the alternator and condenser.
I loosened the alternator and the P/S pump pulleys and removed the two belts.
With the engine in, I loosened the crank pulley bolt with a big ass wrench braced on the engine well,
then just barely "blipped" the starter to pop it loose. Ass wrenches come in many sizes. I only have the big ass wrench and the medium ass wrench. The adjustable ass wrench is not any good.
With the engine out, I locked the flywheel in place by jamming a screwdriver
through an inspection hole into the flywheel, then used a medium ass wrench and my super human strength.
I removed crank pulley to expose crank sprocket.
I removed side timing belt covers to expose cam sprockets.
I removed the middle timing belt cover, and put the pulley back on to rotate the engine
to line up timing marks.
With the engine out, I rebuilt the oil pump, replaced the water pump, bearings, tensioner,
tensioner adjuster, and camshaft oil seals.
With the engine in, I replaced the camshaft oil seals.
If I didn't replace the tensioner adjuster, I SLOWLY, over a period of a few hours,
recompressed the adjuster in a vice.
Then to hold it in the open position, I "fabricated" a new pin out of an office paper clip.
There are the timing marks all ligned up. I aligned the timing marks on the sprockets
to the marks on the back of the timing belt cover or engine.
I put on the new belt and lined up the marks, then used clamps to keep them there.
Give em the clamps! The clamps!
I installed the last pulley and the tensioner, released the tensioner adjuster, and there it is.
I reinstalled the covers, and I tightened it up.
- Then I finished my beer.
Jeff wrote ( 9/10/2009 5:34:19 AM )
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